A Day to Die For
1996: Everest's Worst Disaster
by G. Ratcliffe
I have not read that many of the accounts of this event, but having an interest in travelogues and accounts of survival in extreme circumstances, I felt this was a must for my mountaineering-education as it were. This account of the 1996 climbing season on Everest has been perceived as controversial due to the author's attempt to 'uncover the truth' about the cause of this disaster, however it has also been claimed to provide an honest and full explanation where previous accounts have omitted the some of the details.
It is an easy read, however I found the writing style rather repetitive, and while there is a warmth to the author's voice I found his narrative rather egocentric. This is an account of the author's experience and search for understanding to appease his feelings of guilt and regret having been on the South Col during the storm on the night of 10th May. Where, for me at least, it lacked the in depth personal descriptions of the experience of climbing and the environment of the area, it emphasises the dedication and determination with which Ratcliffe drove his search. I found this longwinded and unnecessary circular in places but then that is the nature of research, a familiar experience which I had not been expecting to read about in this book.
Overall, I found this an interesting and insightful book, one which made me want to read others' account in order to compare them. I think by the end of it I would not say I liked it, I'd be unlikely to read it again at least, however I would recommend it to other readers interested in understanding the motivations and considerations (or disregard there of) behind decision making in extreme environments.